Tutorial for a Kid's Strip Skirt with an applique pocket

I stitched up a strip skirt for Wildwood Baby's friend Ellie. Here she is modeling her new skirt.
Ellie's Mama is one talented woman, check out her Etsy store, Unleash the Goddess for some fantastic goodies. She is also a member one of my most beloved bands, Spiral Rhythm. Their music is inspirational and beautiful!
This skirt and the following instructions are for a size 3T, but I want to take a minute to explain how I got the measurements, so you can make a skirt of any size, for kids or adults.

6 Panels Total
Top of panel

1. Measure waist or hips, wherever the skirt will sit then add about 12-16". So, if waist is 24", the total circumference would be approximately 36".
2. Divide this number by the amount of panels, which is 6. So, 36 divided by 6 is 6". Also, I'm rarely exact when it comes to measuring the strips, they are very forgiving.
3. Add seam allowance of 1" for each side so the top of each panel would be cut at 7".

Bottom of panel

1. This number depends on how much spin you want for the bottom of the skirt. Let's do about 42". Divide 42" by 6 and you get 7".
2. Then add seam allowance and the bottom of each cut panel should measure 8".

Length of panel

1. Measure from where the skirt will sit at the waist to where you want the hem to fall. Let's say it's 16". Subtract 1" for the waistband and add 1 1/2" for the hem (16 1/2").
2. Add seam allowance for the top so total length to cut for each panel would be 17".

Waistband

1. Use number you got for the top of the skirt, 36" then add seam allowance of 1" so length of waistband would be 37".
2. The width for a 1" waistband is 3".

Drawstring

1. Cut a strip of fabric that is about 1" wide and longer than the waistband by about 20".

Check out this diagram to help you visualize.

Also,
General sizing for kid's skirt-
18mo.-2T Waist 20-24" Length 13"
3T-4T W21-26" L 16"
5-6 W23-27" L 20"

General sizing for women's skirt-
S/M-up to 40" waist
L/XL-up to 50" waist
2XL/3XL-up to 60" waist
Length depends on height
For this project you'll need some fabric of different colors and patterns that you like together. These instructions are for a size 3T six panel skirt of alternating purple, brown and green cotton calicos. A half yard for two panels will give you plenty of extra fabric leftover for the waistband and drawstring as well as pieces for other projects too.
You'll also need some Heat N' Bond Lite adhesive paper (or whatever brand you use) and some elastic, if you'd like to use elastic. For kid's clothing, it's nice to have both elastic and drawstring.


Cutting the Fabric-All seam allowances are 1/2".

Pieces you'll need
Two brown-Cut two pieces that measure 7" at the top, 8" at the bottom and 17" in length
Two purple-Cut two pieces that measure 7" at the top, 8" at the bottom and 17" in length
Two green-Cut two pieces that measure 7" at the top, 8" at the bottom and 17" in length
Waistband-Cut one strip that is 3" by 37"
Pocket-Cut a piece of fabric that is about 6" by 7"
Applique-You can do any picture you like. There are some simple templates here. I draw my own, this one in particular is the Triple Goddess symbol with the waxing, waning and full moons. I draw the figures out on paper then trace that onto the Heat N' Bond Lite. Cut out the patterns from the Heat N' Bond and use them to cut the fabric.

Please excuse the wrinkled nature of these panels...I only get the iron out in cases of national emergency...well that, and to do appliques.

Sewing the pieces together
Skirt

1. Pin the panels right side together in an alternating order that you like (be sure to keep all the tops with the tops and the bottoms with the bottoms. I've gotten them mixed before and it's not pretty. The seam ripper and I go way back.
2. Stitch all six panels right side together down the sides.
3. Lay the skirt down on the table and carefully cut any uneven edges on the top and bottom. Don't get too specific with this, just clean it up a bit.

Waistband

1. Stitch the short ends (3") right sides together so that you have a long (37") loop of fabric.
2. Fold the length of the waistband in half and wrong sides together so that your long loop is now 37" around and 1 1/2" wide.
3. Pin the waistband to the top of the skirt and stitch around the circumference of the skirt checking to be sure your seam will be on the inside of the skirt. Leave a little opening for the elastic if you are using elastic.
4. Topstitch for a more finished look.
   

Drawstring

1. Fold the sides of the fabric strip in then fold again, similar to bias tape.
2. Sew down the length of the drawstring.
3. Cut a small slit in the front of the skirt's waistband (you can either leave it like this or strengthen the edges with an embroidery stitch or a buttonhole stitch) and feed the drawstring through.
4. Knot the ends of the drawstring.
   

Elastic

1. Feed the elastic into the waistband with an attached safety pin, measure it to the tightness you like then cut and sew ends together.
2. Sew up hole in waistband.

Hemming the skirt

1. Edge the bottom of the skirt with a zig zag stitch then fold the hem under about an inch and pin.
2. Use a straight stitch close to the fold to sew the hem.
3. Then sew right along the zigzag stitch with another zigzag stitch-this will secure the hem nicely.

Sewing the Applique

1. With an iron, press the Heat N' Bond to the wrong side of fabric pieces you've cut for your applique. After you have an idea where the pieces will be positioned, peel the backing off and press the applique pieces down onto the pocket.
2. Sew the applique to the pocket. You can either use a satin stitch to sew on the applique for a more polished look or use a zigzag or straight stitch and let the edges fray for a more rustic look.

Sewing the Pocket

1. Edge your pocket with the serger or with a zig zag stitch about a 1/4" from the edge.
2. Hem the top of the pocket by folding the top edge down (towards wrong side of fabric) and sew across the top).
3. Pin the pocket onto the skirt wherever you want it to sit and be sure check that it lies evenly across.
4. Sew the pocket onto the skirt (not across the top, you may laugh...but I've done it!). Sew over top left and top right sides a few times to strengthen them.

And that's it! Hope this tutorial will help you stitch up a nice panel skirt, they are so cute and comfy to wear!
Here is a final bit of goodness for you because really, how adorable is the sight of two tots kissing?